We wake up each morning from our wooden beds and drag ourselves outside, down two blocks to the beach. At this hour of the morning the sand is moon-chilled and a few locals, who operate on a different variety of daily circadian rhythms, are still up and about from last night’s adventure. Their long evening is ending just as our long day is gearing up.
The games we play in the morning are the kind that snap you awake in an instant. Morning workout has a completely different feel here on the ocean than it did back in the wet grass on the banks of the Trancura. We draw lines in the sand and try to pull ourselves across. We run around, knock each other over, sand is flying. After half an hour, we walk home, barefoot with flip-flops in hand, fully awake. We will be shaking sand from our hair for the
rest of the day.
Breakfast! Breakfast comes with peach juice, or banana smoothies, or Mellon juice with a spoon-full of sugar each. Crepes with marmalade and sandwhiches with scrambled egg and cheese. Breakfast of Pichilemu champions.

Melina Coogan and the colors of the town. Photo by Emery Tillman
The day rolls on from there. Classes at the beach, in town, strolling around wide eyed with cameras slung over our shoulder, soaking in the color and the craziness. Classes on the docks, Newton’s theories while the stray dogs bark insistently. A Grey and white kitten we’ve named pepper materializes from the shadows and tries to sleep in our laps as we study syndechony and personification.

David Gorski, David Hughes and Emery Tilman on a photo stroll. Photo by Melina Coogan.
And then lunch! Everybody together, eating and comparing stories from the day, talking always of the swell, the waves, who has observed them, who has heard stories, who is going to the Point of Wolves, who is taking a rest day to mend a blown skirt.
Classes continue, watermelon Popsicles are becoming a common sight as are sopapillas, (Zach Kathrein found a stand that sells them for 100 pesos a pop). The day marches on and before you know it it’s time to load up the truck and swing through town out to the Point of Wolves.
And then we are spinning somewhere in a white foam pile between blue sky and blue ocean. The tremendous roar of the ocean and the hisssss that follows. Hours of sun and salt water, hours lost in an excited reverie.

David Hughes and Stephen Forster between green water and blue sky. Photo by Mathew Tropea
We are drawn to the ocean.